To date, the laminate can be called one of the most popular types of flooring for home.But really it deserves attention.It is easy to installation, is relatively inexpensive, has many options for textures and colors and simply beautiful.Customers are happy, happy sellers!But to buy laminate - is only half the problem, the trouble starts when it comes to its installation, because many do not know even the most basic things about this process.Let's analyze in this article, how is done laying the laminate onto the concrete floor, and what will have to face during these works.
criteriachoice of laminate ↑
to start going to the store for laminate.Here you will surely confused, because of the number of species, colors and textures you certainly scatter eyes.In order to "put them in a pile,
If with a choice of colors and textures you have no problems, then here is a proficiency you will not be dismantled without the consultant.Thus, the laminate can be of two classes: 2 and 3. In turn, these two classes are divided into three subclasses another.Let's see, what do they differ from each other.
Laminate second class is designed for the home, which means you can use it in your apartment or a country house.Now subclasses:
21 - for home use in rooms with low permeability, such as in the bedroom;
22 - for home use in rooms with medium traffic (children);
23 - for home use in rooms with high permeability (living room. Hall, kitchen).
Laminate third grade is ideal for installation in rooms with very high traffic, ie public.
31 - commercial premises with low permeability.An example of such a room can become a meeting room.
32 - commercial areas with moderate permeability (offices, operating rooms);
33 - business premises with a high degree of permeability (shops, restaurants, boutiques)
If you want your laminate served to you as long as possible, then choose the one on the packaging which is the first figure in the designation of Class 3. Such as the flooringat least 8 years old will delight you with their beauty and flawless appearance.But laminate second class is also very good.Its average "life expectancy" of about 5 years old, plus or minus one year.
stocks of tools and devices ↑
So, for mounting the laminate on a concrete floor, you will need the following tools:
- marker, crayon or pencil
- jigsawor drank
- wooden block
Required preparatory work ↑
tools ready, you, too, then it's time to go to the preparatory works, which consist in floor leveling and adaptation laminatefor it to new conditions.
Laminate should lie down in the room where you are it will be laid, at least 2 days.Make sure that the room temperature was within the 20 degrees and the humidity - at least 70%.The packs must be sealed.Thus, the laminate "accustomed" to the new environment and to their owners.While he was "resting" you can read the instructions, which necessarily available in each package.So you protect yourself from any surprises.
Leveling concrete floor ↑
Before you put laminate on the concrete floor, it is necessary to check for irregularities.If any, the alignment can not do without - laminate loves smooth surface without flaws.
To the old, gnarled floor turned into a flawless, you need to take advantage of special mortars for floors.Such substance is diluted with plain water and then poured directly onto the concrete.The so-called screed must be properly dry, it may take 2 (if the layer is thin) to 5 days.Do not rely on the producers of such mixtures.They usually claim that their screed dries so quickly that you can walk on it after a few hours.Yes, it is possible to walk on it is really possible, but to lay a laminate in any case it is impossible!
Let's look in more detail at the screed, because this process also requires skill.
- Prepare a concrete base.Remove with a litter, dust, various exfoliated fragments and be sure to prime with.
- Make marks on the wall.The most convenient way to start the job by marking the upper level, which is very often set the position of the door or edge trims, as well as the floor in another room.At the corner, adjacent to the door, set the starting point, which corresponds to the level of the finished floor.Take gidrouroven laser or similar terms and schedule for the remaining corners of the room.Then connect them by a straight line using a stretched rope.Thus, you get the level of the finished floor.Now measure out of this line down a distance equal to the thickness of the floor and re-connect the points obtained lines - is the upper limit of the screed.
- Adjust the markers.Markers easiest to install in the small hill from the thick cement mortar (so they will be better to stay).If necessary, you can pin down a hill, or, on the contrary, increase it a bit, pour another solution.The upper edge of the markers must be on the same level as the line marking.To achieve perfect accuracy can be stretched with the help of ropes.Slides markers should be positioned along the longest wall of the room at a distance of 20-30 cm from the walls and from each other by a distance of about one meter.Before starting screed, should be given some time to slide out of the solution hardened, or during installation work ties markers may tilt or fall completely.
- Prepare screed mortar.The large capacity is filled with a dry mixture, water is added in an amount as indicated on the package.With the construction of the mixer solution was stirred until smooth.
- mixture is poured between the two markers and compacted with a trowel.It is necessary to ensure that all voids were carefully filled.With rules flatten the top of the tie, from the wall.During this work the edge of the rules should rest on the handles.In those places where the solution is small, dosypte it to the upper level of markers.
screed is ready, but it still requires careful drying.
addition to a perfectly flat surface of the laminate still loves and dry, and after equalization and drying, check for somewhere moisture or the more mold.If any, the laminate can not be stacked!What to do?After you have bought 20 packs of flooring chic!Quite easily and quickly solved by pouring waterproofing layer, which will be excellent protection against moisture and other "wet" trouble.
Moisture destroyed now Clean the house!Broom or vacuum cleaner is necessary to remove all the pebbles, dust and other debris.Keep in mind that even small, with a diameter of 2-3 mm stone can damage your laminate.
Laying the substrate and the vapor barrier ↑
When installing laminate flooring on the concrete floor or screed must use and isolating film and the substrate - one - protects against moisture, the other - from the noise.
paroizoliruyuschego As a material it is recommended to use a conventional polyethylene film but with a minimum thickness of 200 microns.This film must be spread out over the entire area of the room with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints can be staple stationery tape.
film stacked on top of the substrate, which provides cushioning laminate on screed or concrete floor.Thus, your laminate flooring will not only be "quieter water below the grass" and allow to enjoy the tranquility, but also serve you for years to come.The substrate is placed under the laminate butt, as well as the joints are sealed with tape.
laminate installation on a concrete foundation ↑
Before laying laminate flooring, you should check for the presence of each tile marriage.Defective laminate can not be installed as the manufacturer's warranty on such products is not covered.
Stack laminate should be in the direction of the light so that the street light fell from the window of parallel sides.Otherwise, all the seams are very noticeable and you will always think about it than spoil your mood.
All series have to be laid in turn.Begin the first row of the window should be preferably on his left side.If the last bracket is not included, it should be cut, but do not leave for later, because all rows have to be complete.Do not forget to use and wedges, which must be inserted between the wall and laminate flooring.They will provide a gap of 10-15 mm, which later you close a plinth.
second row start to cut the board, the rest of the first row.At the end of the second row from you again will be a piece of its use for the start of the third and so on until the end.In this way you will have the effect of chess, which looks quite original and beautiful.
finished second row at an angle of about 40 degrees, insert it into the lock first and lightly pressing snap both series.
to laminate tiles abut each other, inciting them with a hammer, but do not knock straight on the items, use for these purposes stockpiled wooden block.Thus, you need to mount all of the tiles.
last row will most likely have to dub in width.With a laminate panel to the crest of the wall, mark the cutting line and cut off a piece of jigsaw unnecessary.Do not forget that the distance between the wall and the laminate should be 10-15 mm.
You may need to make holes for various communications.They can be drunk the same jigsaw.To do this, measure the diameter of the holes and on the laminate to draw exactly the same, but more than 10 mm.The resulting gap is later closed plinth.
Basically, as you can see, there is nothing difficult in installing laminate on a concrete foundation, but there are some very significant nuances that must be taken into account, so you do not "bite the elbows themselves."Make repairs wisely!