How to make the bed the podium with drawers

By Admin | Furniture For Home
09 April 2016

hide the side panels and drawers, comfortable beds give this elegant, modern look.A drawer under the bed thanks to its owner gets a huge amount of useful storage space ... In this article, we will focus on how to make the bed the podium with his hands.

I built this bed for my teenage daughter.It all began with the fact that I bought her a new mattress shape memory, which requires a solid foundation.Make as many as six drawers, I decided for two reasons.Firstly, to make rational use of the space under the bed to store bedding and other things.Secondly, to wean her daughter push under his bed trash when she "cleaned" the room.

I had no plans or sketches for the work.I acted on the principle of "come what may" (which, in general, is typical for me).I am sure that there are more effective ways of implementing such a project with fewer lumber.I just tend to err: every time I strongly do not want my creation one day fell apart because of weak muscles design ...

sometimes better than the brain :)

How to make the bed the podium with his own hands

Contents:

  1. Step 1: Getting Started.Building support frame
  2. Step 2: Making bedsteads
  3. Step 3: Production of drawers for storage
  4. Step 4: Install drawer
  5. Step 5: Assembling and installation of drawers and surface
  6. Step 6: Final adjustment andFinish
  7. Step 7: The result
  8. Step 8: My mistakes

Step 1: Getting Started.Building support frame

In this article I will discuss the construction of the bed with his hands literally steps of the podium.I hope that my guide would be a good tool for those who have decided on their own to upgrade the furniture in the house.I'll tell you what techniques I used when it was created and what tools I needed to do.I purposely did not give here the exact dimensions of the individual elements.All dimensions can and must be adjusted to suit your individual needs - bed height, width, size of the mattress and the number of boxes, etc.

I developed the design of this bed, trying to make it with its flat surfaces and straight lines look quite modern.I wanted the bulk of the bed was based on a relatively small base and the side walls as it hung over him.My bed was designed with the expectation of the size of the mattress Queen - 150 cm wide and 200 cm long.The distance from the floor to the overhanging walls, it was decided to make equal to 12.5 cm.

To achieve these goals, I built a frame length of 187.5 cm and a width of 125 cm, using the bars section 5x10 cm. When the frame was finished, I placed it on my workbenchconvenience of further work.I straightened the frame using wood inserts where it was necessary, and fix it on the surface of the desktop so that it is not shifted during operation.No, I did not fasten it with screws to the bench, I just stuck it ...

shag-1-1m

shag-1-2m

Step 2: Making the bed frame

I made a frame is divided into two halves.This allows you to disassemble the bed for easy transport.For the manufacture of the frame I used 5x10 cm rods and 18 mm plywood, which means that the finished furniture should get a very solid and quite heavy.Drawers I decided to post trampled, two more - at the foot of the bed and two smaller drawers on each side of her.

I started with the preparation of the top guides.Detail facing the inside of the bed is a little shorter and thinner end thereof (cut away half the thickness), to make a connection with overlapping plywood, which will continue the remaining length of the bed.To reduce the thickness of the bar, I set the depth of cut of my circular saw 18 mm, made a series of cross cuts at a distance of about 3 mm from each other, and then using a hammer and chisel to remove the rests of wood and smoothed the surface at the site of the future joint.Of course, it would be easier to use one solid piece of plywood on the entire length of the bed, but I did not want to buy timber on top of what I already had (left from previous projects).

Then I sawed plywood panel size.I cut fragment of a width of 75 cm (one-half the total width of the bed) and a length of 62.5 cm (which corresponds to the depth of drawers), and the three fragments 35h71 cm vertical side walls and one - 35h62.5 cm for the back wall.

First I glued and fastened with screws to the back wall of the bottom panel.Then made cuts in the sidewalls for 5x10 cm bars (top rail), attach the side walls (the partition between the boxes) to the bottom panel.I arranged the outdoor section of a base frame and temporarily secured with two screws.On the inner side of the upper guide I posted lapped, glued and screwed proper plywood panel.The opposite end of the upper guide rail, I lifted a piece of 5x10 cm bar.Then I set the 5x10 cm cross member on the site adjacent to the side wall of plywood.Screws I fastened the crossmember to the side wall and to the upper guide.Then I placed outside the upper guide and attach it to the cross.I've put together a guide crossmember in the headboard.Instead of solid plywood panels at the head I used 5x10 cm frame on which cemented cutting plywood.To avoid splitting the wood I drilled pilot holes at the ends of the top rails at fixing crossbars.In addition I have also attached a 6.25 cm strip of plywood to the bottom side edge of the plywood panel.It is required for attachment of cladding panels.

next action taken by me was the installation of 30 cm strips of plywood for the remaining length of the bed frame.I just needed a plywood along the outer edges of the bed to support the lower edge of the partitions between the boxes.I attached the plywood pieces to the bottom of the bottom of the plywood panel.Then install the remaining 5x10 cm cross between the upper guide.I placed them next to the panels spacers boxes.I then installed themselves dividers, which also need to make the cuts for the top rails.I screwed separating panel to the cross, and the bottom floor panel.Separators, I arranged so that between them there is a place for two boxes of 50 cm wide. Approximately 32 cm space is left at the head of the bed to the bedside table.In the future, I plan to do in the back of the head 15-20 cm thick, resulting in space for the bedside table to increase to ~ 50 cm.

remains to repeat the whole process, with the result that will be a second symmetrical half of the bed frame.

shag-2-1m
result of the implementation of this step should be in this frame, below you can see a photo milestones.

shag-2-2m shag-2-3m

shag-2-4m shag-2-5m shag-2-6m

shag-2-7m

shag-2-8m shag-2-9m

shag-2-11m shag-2-12m

shag-2-13m

shag-2-14m shag-2-15m

shag-2-16m shag-2-17m shag-2-18m

shag-2-19m collected two halves.

Step 3: Production of drawers for storage

For this project I made a very strong solid boxes using butt joints instead of "dovetail."The width of each box to be 2.5 cm less than the width of its slot to accommodate the guide for its extendable.The width of the compartments for drawers I had, as you remember, 50 cm, so the boxes themselves, I made a width of 47.5 cm and 60 cm deep. I drank a strip of 12 mm plywood width 20 cm, and then cut them into pieces of desired length.On his workbench I hooked a small block of wood to timely stop the sawing.This ensures that all cut out to get the perfect pieces of equal length.Make a locking bar - a matter of seconds, but it saves a lot of time on infinite dimensions.

side walls of boxes in my performance overlap the ends of the front and rear.The walls of each box on the inside I did a groove depth of 4.5 mm to 1.5 cm from the bottom edge.The width of the grooves is made with the expectation that they can be inserted into the bottom of the box made from 6mm plywood.In the manufacture of bottoms need to carefully monitor that the corners were perfectly straight.Their size, of course, should be slightly greater than the distance between the walls of the boxes (9 mm in width (in the direction of the side wall) and 15 mm in length).

Before assembling the boxes, I polished all their constituent fragments (when the boxes will be collected, will make it much more difficult).Then proceed directly to the assembly.For this I needed glue and pneumatic nailers, hammering finishing nails 30 mm.I have connected the front and side walls of the box, apply a small amount of glue in the grooves and inserted in place of the bottom, then joins the back wall.Using a carpenter's square, I leveled the frame in the final box and nailed the bottom of the box to the bottom edge of the rear wall.

shag-3-1m

shag-3-2m shag-3-3m

shag-3-4m shag-3-5m shag-3-6m

shag-3-7m

shag-3-8m shag-3-9m

Step 4: Install drawer

I bought some inexpensive guides for drawers 55 cm long. These guides allow the drawers only 3 /4 (in this case ~ 40 cm).Each guide consists of two parts - one for mounting on the box and one for mounting on the frame wall / dividing walls.First, I installed "runners" on the side walls of the boxes, using the supplied screws, then the "rails" - by separating walls.By doing this, care should be taken to offset the guide relative to the front edge of the structure was the same everywhere.To all the drawers to be secured at the same level, I used a piece of 6mm plywood as a gasket.After installing the rails, I numbered each box and its place.

shag-4-1m

shag-4-2m shag-4-3m

Step 5: Assembling and installation of drawers and surface

for surface finishing bed I decided to use 18 mm plywood, lined with maple veneer.The ends of the plywood, I pasted a plastic edge.Use it quite easily.On its lower side with a layer of heat activated adhesive.For his warm-up I use an old iron: Heated veneer of about 25 cm for about 3 seconds, then a small piece of wood firmly pressed against the heated portion of the base.If you want to make adjustments, just re-heated region.The edge is slightly wider than 18 mm, the excess can be carefully cut with a knife, but I believe that it is easier to remove it with a sander.

With a circular saw I cut a strip of plywood width of 36 cm and divided them into pieces of desired length.To angles are not deviated from 90 degrees, I used a carpenter's square.First, I have prepared the above method for fixing the panel at the foot of the bed (I made it long enough to cover the side edge of the box).Then I fixed the veneer on the edges.I temporarily fixed panel on the bed frame, thus made so that the top edge of the panel towered over the upper surface of the bed frame 4 cm - this will hide the lower part of the mattress.Making sure that I have all satisfied, I finally secured the panel by screwing it to the frame from the inside.

next panel, which I did, meant for two side drawers.I cut out a fragment of 100 cm (the length of the two boxes together) and had drunk from it 10 cm strip, which is fixed along the upper edge of the bed frame.As before, I pre-recorded panel clamps and make sure it is properly positioned, secured with screws.The remaining piece of plywood length of 100 cm was sawed in half to yield two front panel boxes.By inserting the guide rails and place the boxes in designated compartments them, I made them a foothold in the panel.Their upper ends have very close contact with the above fixed decorative strip of plywood, and the bottom to fall by 1.5 cm below the lower surface of the chassis frame.I used 3 mm spacers on top and sides of the front panel to the boxes to the gap, allowing the box to move easily, everywhere was the same.Pre-drilled holes in the frame, I greatly reduce the likelihood of bias panels when fitting screws.Similarly, I did the finishing on the other side of the bed.

shag-5-1m

shag-5-2m shag-5-3m

shag-5-4m shag-5-5m

shag-5-6m shag-5-7m

shag-5-8

shag-5-9m shag-5-10m shag-5-11m

Step 6: The final adjustment and finish

After all the paneling was found out that it takes a littleadjustable runners for pulling out drawers.A pair of front panel covering the boxes were not coplanar with the adjacent facing panels, and were nearly 3 mm.To remedy the situation, I had to adjust the position of the guide rails on the bed frame.

Despite the fact that in the previous stages, I tried very hard, we found a few minor surface defects.To hide the flaws I used putty for wood DAP.After it dries polished entire outer surface of the bed fine (220) sandpaper to prepare her to finish.

exterior of the bed I plated stained Ebony.It gave the tree a nice deep color.Foam brush I applied one coat of stain, wait 24 hours and covered the surface with three coats of polyurethane varnish, water-based.After application of each layer, I waited for at least 2 hours, and then the polished surface with sandpaper grit 300.

Two steps I missed in his instructions, because I forgot to photograph these milestones.First, I cut two strips of 6 mm oak plywood 9 cm wide, painted black and covered their sides of the support frame.Secondly, I cut two pieces of 9 mm plywood and attach them to the upper surface of the bed frame to support a mattress.

shag-6-1m

shag-6-2m shag-6-3m

Step 7: The result

I am pleased with the results of the work done.I had a lot of material left over from previous projects and as a result I spent relatively little money by buying only guides for drawers and a couple of sheets of plywood.

My daughter was delighted with his new bed.She liked it a modern appearance and a built storage space.Now we'll see how much any nonsense she can squeeze in these boxes when the time comes to put things in the room in order.I also have to prepare for the next project - the creation of a headboard for this bed, again with built-in storage space.

shag-7m

Step 8: My mistakes

As with most projects, even well-designed, with no errors not done.I think it makes sense to talk about any problems in the course of the work, because on their own and others' mistakes we all learn.

first problem arose when I tried to install the drawers after mounting rails.The boxes turned out to be too high, and tilt them to put runners in the guide, it was not easy.To fix this, we had to reduce the height of the boxes, cut 1 cm from the top edge.

next problem arose when I realized that I may have made a bed frame too narrow.I did it exactly 150 cm wide (like a mattress).When the work was in full swing, I suddenly realized that he had made 150 cm and 152-153 cm - I simply did not take into account the thickness of the bed linen.Well, this thought occurred to me before I started to cut finishing panels.To solve this problem, I added a 5x10 cm block between the two halves of the bed, thus increasing its width.When it came down to get a new mattress from the box and put it on the bed, I was waiting for a new disappointment.It turned out that the mattress is actually lower than was listed on the package, it was only the actual width of 145 cm.

little grumbling, I came up with a solution that really has not yet been implemented in practice.I'm going to remove the 5x10 cm spacers installed between the two halves of the bed.Simple enough, right?Wrong!I thus have to reduce the width of the two drawers and the upper parts finish.However, there should be no new problems, if you do everything gently and carefully.It was not clear moments?